Tower of London

Tower Hill | 9am-5.30pm Tue-Sat, 10am-5.30pm Sun & Mon Mar-Oct, closes 4.30pm daily Nov-Feb, last admission 30min before closing time

The absolute kernel of London with a history as bleak and bloody as it is fascinating, the Tower of London should be first on anyone’s list of London’s sights. Despite ever-growing ticket prices and the hordes of tourists that descend here in the summer months, this is one of those rare pleasures: somewhere worth the hype. Throughout the ages, murder and political skulduggery have reigned as much as kings and queens, so tales of imprisonment and executions will pepper your trail.

Buckingham Palace

Buckingham Palace Rd | 9.30am-4.30pm 28 Jul-25 Sep, timed ticket with admission every 15min

Built in 1705 as Buckingham House for the duke of the same name, this palace has been the royal family’s London lodgings since 1837, when St James’s Palace was judged too old-fashioned and insufficiently impressive. It is dominated by the 25m-high Queen Victoria Memorial at the end of The Mall. Tickets for the palace are on sale from the Ticket Office at the Visitor Entrance, Buckingham Palace Rd. After a series of crises and embarrassing revelations in the early 1990s, the royal spin doctors cranked things up a gear to try to revive popular support, and it was decided to swing open the doors of Buck House to the public for the first time. Well, to 19 of the 661 rooms, at least. And only during August and September, when HRH is holidaying in Scotland. And for a veritable king’s ransom, but still, we mustn’t quibble – no price is too great for an opportunity to see the Windsors’ polaroids plastered all over the fridge door. The ‘working rooms’ are stripped down each summer for the arrival of the commoners, and the usual carpet is replaced with industrial-strength rugs, so the rooms don’t look all that lavish. The tour starts in the Guard Room (too small for the Ceremonial Guard, who actually use adjoining quarters); allows a peek inside the State Dining Room (all red damask and Regency furnishings); then moves on to the Blue Drawing Room, with a gorgeous fluted ceiling by John Nash; to the White Drawing Room, where foreign ambassadors are received; and to the Ballroom, where official receptions and state banquets are held. The Throne Room is pretty hilarious with kitschy his-and-hers pink chairs initialled ‘ER’ and ‘P’, sitting smugly under what looks like a theatre arch. The most interesting part of the tour (for all but royal sycophants) is the 76.5m-long Picture Gallery, featuring splendid works by artists such as Van Dyck, Rembrandt, Canaletto, Poussin, Canova and Vermeer, although the likes of these and much more are yours for free at the National Gallery. Wandering the gardens is another highlight here – it’s bound to give you a real royal feeling. Book in advance for disabled access.

London Eye

Jubilee Gardens | 10am-8pm Oct-Apr, to 9pm May, Jun & Sep, to 9.30pm Jul & Aug, closed 1 week in Jan

It’s difficult to remember what London looked like before the landmark London Eye began twirling at the southwestern end of Jubilee Gardens in 2000. Not only has it fundamentally altered the skyline of the South Bank but, standing 135m tall in a fairly flat city, it is visible from many surprising parts of the city (eg Kennington and Mayfair). A ride – or ‘flight’, as it is called here – in one of the wheel’s 32 glass-enclosed gondolas holding up to 28 people is something you really can’t miss if you want to say you’ve ‘done’ London; 3.5 million people a year give it a go. It takes a gracefully slow 30 minutes and, weather permitting, you can see 25 miles in every direction from the top of what is the world’s tallest Ferris wheel. Save money and avoid the queues by buying online.

Westminster Abbey

Dean’s Yard | 9.30am-3.45pm Mon-Fri, to 6pm Wed, to 1.45pm Sat, last entry 1hr before closing

Westminster Abbey is such an important commemoration site for both the British royalty and the nation’s political and artistic idols, it’s difficult to overstress its symbolic value or imagine its equivalent anywhere else in the world. With the exception of Edward V and Edward VIII, every English sovereign has been crowned here since William the Conqueror in 1066, and most of the monarchs from Henry III (died 1272) to George II (died 1760) were also buried here.

There is an extraordinary amount to see here but, unless you enjoy feeling like part of a herd, come very early or very late.

The abbey is a magnificent sight. Though a mixture of architectural styles, it is considered the finest example of Early English Gothic (1180–1280). The original church was built in the 11th century by King (later St) Edward the Confessor, who is buried in the chapel behind the main altar. Henry III (r 1216–72) began work on the new building but didn’t complete it; the French Gothic nave was finished in 1388. Henry VII’s huge and magnificent chapel was added in 1519. Unlike St Paul’s, Westminster Abbey has never been a cathedral – it is what is called a ‘royal peculiar’ and is administered directly by the Crown.

It is perhaps more impressive from outside than within. The interior is chock-a-block with small chapels, elaborate tombs of the monarchy, and monuments to various luminaries down through the ages. And, as you might expect for one of the most visited churches in Christendom, it can get intolerably busy.

Immediately past the barrier through the north door is what’s known as Statesmen’s Aisle, where politicians and eminent public figures are commemorated mostly by staggeringly large marble statues. The Whig and Tory prime ministers who dominated late Victorian politics, Gladstone (who is buried here) and Disraeli (who is not), have their monuments uncomfortably close to one another. Nearby is a monument to Robert Peel, who, as home secretary in 1829, created the Metropolitan Police. Robert’s policemen became known as ‘Bobby’s boys’ and later, simply, ‘bobbies’.

At the eastern end of the sanctuary, opposite the entrance to the Henry VII Chapel, is the rather ordinary-looking Coronation Chair, upon which almost every monarch since the late 13th century is said to have been crowned. Up the steps in front of you and to your left is the narrow Queen Elizabeth Chapel, where Elizabeth I and her half-sister ‘Bloody Mary’ share an elaborate tomb.

The Henry VII Chapel, in the easternmost part of the abbey, has spectacular circular vaulting on the ceiling. Behind the chapel’s altar is the elaborate sarcophagus of Henry VII and his queen, Elizabeth of York.

Beyond the chapel’s altar is the Royal Air Force (RAF) Chapel, with a stained-glass window commemorating the force’s finest hour, the Battle of Britain. Next to it, a plaque marks the spot where Oliver Cromwell’s body lay for two years until the Restoration, when it was disinterred, hanged and beheaded. The bodies believed to be those of the two child princes (allegedly) murdered in the Tower of London in 1483 are buried here. The chapel’s southern aisle contains the tomb of Mary Queen of Scots, beheaded on the orders of her cousin Elizabeth and with the acquiescence of her son, the future James I.

The Chapel of St Edward the Confessor, the most sacred spot in the abbey, lies just east of the sanctuary and behind the high altar; access may be restricted to protect the 13th-century floor. St Edward was the founder of the abbey and the original building was consecrated a few weeks before his death. His tomb was slightly altered after the original was destroyed during the Reformation.

The south transept contains Poets’ Corner, where many of England’s finest writers are buried and/or commemorated; a memorial here is the highest honour the Queen can bestow. Just north is the Lantern, the heart of the abbey, where coronations take place. If you face eastwards while standing in the centre, the sanctuary is in front of you. George Gilbert Scott designed the ornate high altar in 1897. Behind you, Edward Blore’s chancel, dating from the mid-19th century, is a breathtaking structure of gold, blue and red Victorian Gothic. Where monks once worshipped, boys from the Choir School and lay vicars now sing the daily services.

The entrance to the Cloister is 13th century, while the cloister itself dates from the 14th. Eastwards down a passageway off the Cloister are three museums run by English Heritage. The octagonal Chapter House has one of Europe’s best-preserved medieval tile floors and retains traces of religious murals. It was used as a meeting place by the House of Commons in the second half of the 14th century. To the right of the entrance to Chapel House is what is claimed to be the oldest door in the UK – it’s been there 950 years. The adjacent Pyx Chamber is one of the few remaining relics of the original abbey and contains the abbey’s treasures and liturgical objects. The Abbey Museum exhibits the death masks of generations of royalty, wax effigies representing Charles II and William III (who is on a stool to make him as tall as his wife Mary), as well as armour and stained glass.

To reach the 900-year-old College Garden, enter Dean’s Yard and the Little Cloisters off Great College St.

On the western side of the cloister is Scientists’ Corner, where you will find Sir Isaac Newton’s tomb; a nearby section of the northern aisle of the nave is known as Musicians’ Aisle.

The two towers above the west door are the ones through which you exit. These were designed by Nicholas Hawksmoor and completed in 1745. Just above the door, perched in 15th-century niches, are the latest sacred additions to the abbey: 10 stone statues of international 20th-century martyrs. These were unveiled in 1998 and they include the likes of Martin Luther King and the Polish priest St Maximilian Kolbe, who was murdered by the Nazis at Auschwitz. To the right as you exit is a memorial to innocent victims of oppression, violence and war around the world. ‘All you who pass by, is it nothing to you?’ it asks poignantly.

The 90-minute guided tours leave several times during the day (Monday to Saturday). One of the best ways to visit the abbey is to attend a service, particularly evensong (5pm weekdays, 3pm at weekends). Sunday Eucharist is at 11am.

St Paul’s Cathedral

St Paul’s Churchyard | 8.30am-4pm last entry Mon-Sat

Even the bombs of the Blitz couldn't erase the distinctive dome of London's most famous church. St Paul's was built by Sir Christopher Wren to replace the medieval cathedral destroyed in the Great Fire, but he had to sneak his plans for a dramatic dome past the City planners. Head to the crypt for memorials to famous Londoners and the Golden Gallery atop the dome for awesome City views.

Bocca di Lupo

12 Archer St |

A new Italian restaurant that has sent ecstatic tremors down Londonders’ tastebuds, Bocca di Lupo hides on a dark Soho backstreet and radiates elegant sophistication. The menu has dishes such as the cacciucco (fish and shellfish stew with spicy tomato), grilled lemony langoustines or pasta with chicken liver ragout, or you can go for the more straightforward grilled swordfish or parmigiana. Enjoy with an array of Italian wines and fantastic desserts.

Giaconda Dining Room

9 Denmark St |

A tiny room off the Charing Cross Rd hides some of the best food around, with simple dishes such as half-a-chicken and chips, good fresh fish of the day or great steak tartare. The wine list is decent and you’re greeted with a carafe of delicious sparkling water and friendly staff.

Modern Pantry

47-48 St John’s Sq | 8am-11pm Mon-Fri, 9am-11pm Sat, 10am-10pm Sun

Currently one of London’s most talked-about eateries, this three-floor Georgian townhouse in the heart of Clerkenwell has a cracking all-day menu, which gives almost as much pleasure to read as to eat from. Ingredients are combined sublimely into dishes such as grilled whole mackerel, aubergine, currant and coriander harasume noodles and sweet soy sauce. The breakfasts are great, too, though sadly portions can be on the small side. Reservations recommended for the evenings. There’s also a small shop.

George Inn

77 Borough High St | Mon-Sat, to 00:00 Fri & Sat

The always-popular George Inn is London’s last surviving galleried coaching inn. It dates from 1676 and is mentioned in Dickens’ Little Dorrit. No wonder it falls under the protection of the National Trust. It is on the site of the Tabard Inn (thus the Talbot Yard address), where the pilgrims in Chaucer’s Canterbury Tales gathered before setting out (well lubricated, we suspect) on the road to Canterbury, Kent.

Dalston Superstore

117 Kingsland Rd | to 2am

Confirming Dalston’s pre-eminence as the area to hang out, the Dalston Superstore opened in 2009 and provided the cool kids with a base to work out of. This two-level industrial space is open all day and serves up sandwiches and light meals, though it really comes into its own after dark when there are club nights in the basement and DJs spinning upstairs. Get here early.