Starlit, moonstruck LA beguiles scores of curious tourists, hopeful starlets and wannabe rock gods every day. But there's a lot more to it than the siren call of fame and fortune. It's a thriving, multilayered city filled with world-class everything: museums, music, food, architecture and gardens.
Although often gridlocked by traffic, LA moves to a rhythm all of its own. A vortex of creative energy spawns a never-ending stream of movies, inventions and trends. Hollywood and Disneyland are givens, but LA's hidden enclaves have a surprising subtlety and flavour which flout the stereotypes.
Points of Interest
Getty Center
1200 Getty Center Dr | 10am-6pm Sun & Tue-Thu, 10am-9pm Fri & Sat
The Getty Center presents triple delights: a stellar art collection, Richard Meier's fabulous architecture and Robert Irwin's seasonally changing gardens. On clear days, add breathtaking views of the city and ocean to the list. A great time to visit is in the late afternoon after the crowds have thinned. Parking is $10.
Los Angeles County Museum of Art
5905 Wilshire Blvd | noon-8pm Mon, Tue & Thu, noon-9pm Fri, 11am-8pm Sat & Sun
Los Angeles County Museum of Art is one of the country's top art museums and the largest in the western USA.
Universal Studios
100 Universal City Plaza | open daily, hours vary
Universal Studios first opened to the public in 1915, when studio head Carl Laemmle invited visitors at a quaint 25¢each (including a boxed lunch) to watch silent films being made. Nearly a century later, Universal remains one of the world's largest movie studios, even if today's visitors are directed to movie-based theme parks at which their chances of seeing an actual movie shoot are approximately nil.
Venice Boardwalk
Venice Pier to Rose Ave | 24hr
Venice Boardwalk is officially known as Ocean Front Walk. It’s a freak show, a human zoo and a wacky carnival, but as far as LA experiences go, it’s a must. This is where to get your hair braided, your karma corrected or your back massaged qi gong–style. Encounters with budding Schwarzeneggers, hoop dreamers, a Speedo-clad snake charmer and a roller-skating Sikh minstrel are pretty much guaranteed, especially on hot summer days. The Sunday-afternoon drum circle draws hundreds of revelers for tribal playing and spontaneous dancing. If the noise doesn’t show you the way there, just follow your nose towards whiffs of ‘wacky tabaccy.’ Alas, the boardwalk vibe gets a bit sketchy after dark.
Hollywood Walk Of Fame
Hollywood Blvd |
Marilyn Monroe? 6774 Hollywood Blvd. James Dean? 1719 Vine St. Elvis Presley? 6777 Hollywood Blvd. Nope, not last known addresses, just the exact spot for the brass star honoring these celebs on the Hollywood Walk of Fame, on Hollywood Blvd bet between La Brea Ave and Vine St. There are more than 2000 stars, so check the website for precise locations.
Cheebo
7533 W Sunset Blvd | 8am-11pm
Cheap and cheerful, this joint makes heaping salads, bulging sandwiches and fabulous organic pizzas sold by the foot. (Inner) kids love the free paper and crayons.
El Conquistador
3701 W Sunset Blvd | 11am-10pm Sun-Thu, 11am-11pm Fri & Sat
Halloween meets Margaritaville at this campy cantina, which is a perfect launchpad for a night on the razzle. One cocktail may suffice to drown your sorrows, so be sure to fill up on yummy nachos, quesadillas, enchiladas and other above-average classics.
Chaya Brasserie
8741 Alden Dr | 11:30-14:30 Mon-Fri, 18:00-22:30 daily
Shigefumi Tachibe's classy joint is an anomaly in this fast-lived city. For more than 20 years his sophisticated Franco-Asian creations – miso-marinated sea bass to filet mignon with potato-filled soba crêpes – have wowed discriminating power palates. Savvy shoppers flock here from Robertson Blvd for happy-hour deals on sushi and martinis.
Skybar
8440 W Sunset Blvd | 11:00-02:00
Like a fading diva still demanding her close-up, Sky Bar keeps the lines long on the Sunset sidewalk outside the Mondrian Hotel. But the wait's worth it - if just for the preening scene on the patio and gorgeous views of the twinkling city below. Gobs of impudent faux-hawks and barely-there dresses if you're looking.
The Bowery
6268 Sunset Blvd | 12:00-02:00 Mon-Fri, 18:00-02:00 Sat & Sun
It may be new, but this nocturnal New York-style pub is the bar of choice for bartenders and waitstaff looking for a late-night toddy. It's small, so arrive early for a table. Some swear the burger, cooked just as requested, is a life-changing experience. The cast of Heroes occasionally drops by for lunch.
Mandrake
2692 S La Cienega Blvd | 14:00-00:00 Sun-Thu, to 01:00 Fri & Sat
Remember those parties in high school, chillin' in somebody's parent's garage - concrete floor, a little cold, a work-in-progress kinda place - where you were ready to drop your cup and run at the first sign of trouble? Mandrake's got that garage-cool feel plus a couple of art chicks. Opened by an art-minded trio in the heart of Culver City's gallery district, this little bar's got a big buzz. And it's fun.
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