Despite Honolulu's skyscrapers and traffic jams, it's one of the most relaxed urban centers in America. Add sandy beaches, waving palms and the balmy weather of Waikiki and you've got a great mix of sun-fun and culture, best enjoyed with a multi-ethnic plate lunch.
It might be part of the USA, but tropical Honolulu is more laid-back than any mainland capital. With its blend of sunny charm and legislative gravitas, the downtown area is surprisingly fascinating to explore - make the effort to drag yourself away from the Gidget-and-mai-tai scene of Waikiki.
Points of Interest
Hawaiʻi State Art Museum
250 S Hotel St | 10am-4pm Tue-Sat
The Hawaiʻi State Art Museum showcases the work of Hawaiian artists.
Ali'iolani Hale
417 S King St | 08:00-16:00 Mon-Fri
The first major government building constructed by the Hawaiian monarchy in 1874, the 'House of Heavenly Kings' was designed by Australian architect Thomas Rowe to be a royal palace, although it was never used as such. Instead, the Italianate building houses Hawaii's Supreme Court and was once home to Hawaii's legislature. It was on the steps of Ali'iolani Hale, in January 1893, that Sanford Dole proclaimed the establishment of a provisional government and the overthrow of the Hawaiian monarchy. Peek inside to find displays on Hawaii's judicial history dating back to the time of Kamehameha the Great.
O'ahu Market
Kekaulike St & N King St |
The busy and colourful Chinatown district was settled around 1860 by Chinese immigrants who had worked off their sugarcane plantation contracts. Its bustling heart is the 1904 O'ahu Market, where you can get tattooed, consult with an herbalist, explore the temples and antique shops or eat at inexpensive restaurants.
Bishop Museum
1525 Bernice St | 9am-5pm Wed-Sun
Bishop Museum is considered the finest Polynesian anthropological museum in the world. Impressive cultural displays include the newly refurbished, epic Hawaiian Hall, while the Science Adventure Center puts you inside an erupting volcano.
Lyon Arboretum
3860 Manoa Rd | 09:00-16:00 Mon-Fri
Nature trails wind through the highly regarded Lyon Arboretum founded in 1918 and managed by the University of Hawai'i. Dr Harold Lyon is credited with introducing 10,000 exotic trees and plants to Hawaii. Approximately half of these are represented in this 193-acre arboretum. This is not a landscaped tropical flower garden, but a mature and largely wooded arboretum where related species are clustered in a seminatural state.
Cafe Laniakea
1040 Richards St | 11:00-14:00 Mon-Fri
Chic and health-conscious, this café runs with an entirely different crowd than your average mess hall. Set in the courtyard at the historic Julia Morgan-designed YWCA, the café has a changing menu committed to local and organic (when possible) ingredients. And because Honolulu has never heard of pretension, the upscale meals are close to down-home prices.
Hiroshi Eurasian Tapas
500 Ala Moana Blvd | 5:30-9:30pm
The Honolulu culinary scene is all about East-West fusions, and chef Hiroshi Fukui adds his own personal stamp with his subtle, unlikely, unforgettable creations.
Little Village Noodle House
1113 Smith St | 10:30am-10:30pm Sun-Thu, to midnight Fri & Sat
A quiet, air-conditioned restaurant in Chinatown? That's only the beginning. The kitchen sets a gold standard, particularly for black-bean sauce and noodles.
thirtyninehotel
39 N Hotel St | 16:00-02:00 Tue-Sat
More arty than clubby, this multimedia space is a gallery by day and low-key dance scene at night. Guest DJs from the mainland don their aloha wear for special weekend appearances, while jazz tests the acoustics on Tuesday.
Hanks Cafe Honolulu
1038 Nu'uanu St | Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00, Sat-Sun 15:00-01:00
You can't get more low-key than at this neighborhood bar on the edge of Chinatown. Owner Hank Taufaasau is a jack-of-all-trades when it comes to the barfly business: the walls are decorated with Polynesian-themed art, live music rolls in nightly and regulars have made it home.
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